Unfortunately Blair and Tashi got stopped by bad weather at camp 2,so went back down to rest and wait.
He has just rung me to say that they are leaving tomorrow morning,16th.for camp 2.
From there they will go up to camp 3 on the Makalu La.
Then up to High camp to rest and leave for the summit about midnight on the 18th.,for a summit early on the 19th.
He plans to call me from the summit,so keep on watching for more news.
Thursday, May 15, 2008
Sunday, May 11, 2008
Summit Time Again
Blair plans to leave basecamp early on the 11th.May..He expec ts to arrive at camp 2 on the 12th.
Then up to camp 3 and rest for the afternoon and early evening on the 13th.
He will leave for the summit later on that evening for a planned summit at about 9.00 a.m. on the 14th.
He has been resting at basecamp waiting for a weather window.Oyhers have been going up,but they are using suplementary oxygen.
Because he is not using O's he will only get one shot at itHe plans to ring me from on or near the summit,so keep watching for news.
Then up to camp 3 and rest for the afternoon and early evening on the 13th.
He will leave for the summit later on that evening for a planned summit at about 9.00 a.m. on the 14th.
He has been resting at basecamp waiting for a weather window.Oyhers have been going up,but they are using suplementary oxygen.
Because he is not using O's he will only get one shot at itHe plans to ring me from on or near the summit,so keep watching for news.
Sunday, May 4, 2008
all, 1st may 2008
here I am in advanced base camp. At the high old altitude of 5680m. life is actually pretty comfortable.i took my first shower for about 2 weeks today. Washed my hair, only to have it freeze in a matter of minutes afterwards. It then took about an hour to thaw my hair out and get a comb through it. My mum is always asking me to cut my hair. And times like this I can understand why.
Two days ago I took a walk up to camp 1. my sherpa tashi and 1 carried up a heap of gear and left it buried at camp 1 (6300m). the reason for this is so it does not get blown away by the fierce winds. Makalu is without a doubt the windiest mountain I have ever climbed. Much worse than everest .
I have been down for 2 days now and plan to head back up to camp 1 for 1 night. Then camp 2 (6700m) for 2 nights. Then try make it up to the makalu la where camp 3 (7400m) is located.
The makalu la is probably the windiest place on any mountain around. Because of its geographical location the wind funnels through and across the makalu-la with hurrican force speeds. Because of this it will be impossible for us to set a tent and leave it there like I have done on other mountian before. Each time we leave camp 3 we will have to pull the poles down and cover the tent with snow. Then start all over again when we come back up again.
If I can get all this done then my acclimitisation will be complete. Then its just a matter of waiting for a good weather window to make a summit bid. Sounds all too easy does`nt it? Well it¨s not. The weather is sunny everyday here in advanced base camp and on the mountain. But the strong winds are halting any serious progress further up the mountain. I guess we will just have to wait and see what mother nature has install for us.
Until then, take care everyone and see you all soon
blair
here I am in advanced base camp. At the high old altitude of 5680m. life is actually pretty comfortable.i took my first shower for about 2 weeks today. Washed my hair, only to have it freeze in a matter of minutes afterwards. It then took about an hour to thaw my hair out and get a comb through it. My mum is always asking me to cut my hair. And times like this I can understand why.
Two days ago I took a walk up to camp 1. my sherpa tashi and 1 carried up a heap of gear and left it buried at camp 1 (6300m). the reason for this is so it does not get blown away by the fierce winds. Makalu is without a doubt the windiest mountain I have ever climbed. Much worse than everest .
I have been down for 2 days now and plan to head back up to camp 1 for 1 night. Then camp 2 (6700m) for 2 nights. Then try make it up to the makalu la where camp 3 (7400m) is located.
The makalu la is probably the windiest place on any mountain around. Because of its geographical location the wind funnels through and across the makalu-la with hurrican force speeds. Because of this it will be impossible for us to set a tent and leave it there like I have done on other mountian before. Each time we leave camp 3 we will have to pull the poles down and cover the tent with snow. Then start all over again when we come back up again.
If I can get all this done then my acclimitisation will be complete. Then its just a matter of waiting for a good weather window to make a summit bid. Sounds all too easy does`nt it? Well it¨s not. The weather is sunny everyday here in advanced base camp and on the mountain. But the strong winds are halting any serious progress further up the mountain. I guess we will just have to wait and see what mother nature has install for us.
Until then, take care everyone and see you all soon
blair
26th April, 2008
Hi all,
Currently I am sitting in makalu base camp at an altitude of 4800m. I have been here now for about a week. Originally my intention had not been to stay here so long. But unfortunately while I was back in the village of lukla (2800m) waitng for a helicopter to bring us here, I caught a rather nasty head cold.
Right now I feel extremely lucky to be alive. I had originally emailed all of you explain my apprehension at have to fly by helicopter into makalu base camp. It would save us a lot of time. But these old Russian helicopters and their pilots are not the most reliable of combinations. And have been known to crash upon landing or even simply fall out of the sky.
We waited in lukla for severals days before finally our helicopter arrived. Because of the number of climbers and gear to be flown in it would take 3 flights to get all the gear into base camp. The first flight went in. we were supposed to fly the same day but strong winds at the landing site cancelled these plans.
The next morning we were back at the air strip in Lukla. I was still feeling bad from my head cold and had played with the idea of actually staying in Lukla a little longer and taking another flight in a few days times. In the end I decided against it and boarded the helicopter ready to be shuttled into base camp.
I have to admit it. When I climbed aboard the helicopter I was a little nervous to sa the least. Its beaten shell and exhaust fume stained panles did little to ease my apprehension. I had joked in an earlier email that the most dangerous part of the expedition would be the helicopter flight into base camp. Little did I know how true those words would be.
Honestly about 99% of the flight was actually really enjoyable. The take off was smooth. The weather clear. I was sharing my flight was an international group of climbers. Including a basque/spanish climber called Juanito Olaizarbal (not sure about the spelling). Juanito is a living legend of high altitude mountianeering. He has 23 8000m mountain summits. Has climbed all 14 8000m mountians in the world without oxygen, including K2 ….twice. making him one of 2-3 climber sin the world to have climbed the worlds most difficult and dnagerous mountain.
Juanito had told me a story about an expedition to makalu in 2002 he had been on. They had finished the climb and took a helicopter from base cmap to Kathmandu. The climbers went on the first flight and the sherpas and cook would go on the second flight. The first flight went fine. But somwhere between Makalu base camp and Kathmandu the second flight simply disappeared without a trace. All on board were killed. The crashed helicoper was never found.
Off course this did nothing to ease my fears. These old Russian helicopters are usually piloted by Russians. They are known for there love of drinking hard liquor. Often whilst flying and often whilst they are extremely drunk.
The flight went smoothly. The pilot seemed sober….enough and even took the time to point out makalu and a few other mountains as we neared base camp. All up the flight would take arounf 20-25mins. As we neared base camp I saw some other base camps appear. I took the chanc eto do some videoing out of the window.
Now normally because landing at these altitudes is so tricky the pilots will fly once or twice around bace camp to familiarise themselves with the conditions. Then come around and land into the wind. This is pretty standard. I have seen dozens on helicopters fly into base camp and they take the same landing approach. All that is except our guy.
As I filmed out of the window I noticed that we were getting lower and lower. I stopped for a second and thought to myself, “shouldn't we be circling first?” the helicopter blades started straining under the weight of the huge metalllic beast it was trying to keep in the air. The engine which had been going along at a pretty fierce pace just seemed to stop. It was right about now that I realised, “ Oh my god, he is going to land!!”
While all this was happening I continued to film. And I must admit, not intentionally. Once I understood he was coming straight in…with a strong tailwind. Well…I kind of started to concentrate on other things…..like self preservation.
From about 20 ft above the ground we simply fell out of the sky. We were coming in at a speed of about 70-80km/hr so it was not as if it was a straight drop down. The helicopter hit the ground with a tremendous thud and we were all send flying. And I was still filming. I flew into the person next to me. Time stood still and it seemd like this was taking minutes and not the seconds. I was waiting for the rotors to hit the rocky boulder strewn landing field we had just hit. If this happened the helicopter would tear into pieces.
I hoped, I prayed we would be ok. The nose the aircraft dug in and we started to go tail over nose. Then the helicopter dug and flatted back out and moved violently to the left. Then it stopped. For those of you trying to imagine just what is was like the best way to describe it is sheer terror. You think your dying. The people you wont get to see anymore. The things you will neve rget to see or do. Then it stops. God has given you a second chance and you feel this enormous weight lifted off your shoulders. You feel so happy that you wont to laugh. Infact as I ran from wrecked helicopter I was laughing. As you watch the video I took you can hear me laughing I am running for dear life. Funny how I can find time to laugh even though I had come so close to being killed.
In a matter of seconds we were out the doors and running for dear life with our heads down to stop ourselves from getting them chopped of by the still spinning blades. I was later told that this was the wrong thing to do. We should have styed inside the helicopter until it was completelyl stationery. Oh well, I got it wrong. Next time I am in a helicopter crash I will have to make sure to get it right……not damn likely.
Anyway, we were alive. Problem was our gear was still back in lukla. I had my necessart gear with me. But other climber were not so lucky. There were memebers from other teams that had wlaked in but wer egetitng their gear helicopter in with absolutely nothing. Just a tent, sleeping bag and the clothes on their backs. Not food,gear or supplies.
Being the large group that we were and that we had had most team supplies sent in by porter we were able to help them out. Even still it was an extremely unpleasant situation for all of them to be in. I certainly did not envy any of them.
Hi all,
Currently I am sitting in makalu base camp at an altitude of 4800m. I have been here now for about a week. Originally my intention had not been to stay here so long. But unfortunately while I was back in the village of lukla (2800m) waitng for a helicopter to bring us here, I caught a rather nasty head cold.
Right now I feel extremely lucky to be alive. I had originally emailed all of you explain my apprehension at have to fly by helicopter into makalu base camp. It would save us a lot of time. But these old Russian helicopters and their pilots are not the most reliable of combinations. And have been known to crash upon landing or even simply fall out of the sky.
We waited in lukla for severals days before finally our helicopter arrived. Because of the number of climbers and gear to be flown in it would take 3 flights to get all the gear into base camp. The first flight went in. we were supposed to fly the same day but strong winds at the landing site cancelled these plans.
The next morning we were back at the air strip in Lukla. I was still feeling bad from my head cold and had played with the idea of actually staying in Lukla a little longer and taking another flight in a few days times. In the end I decided against it and boarded the helicopter ready to be shuttled into base camp.
I have to admit it. When I climbed aboard the helicopter I was a little nervous to sa the least. Its beaten shell and exhaust fume stained panles did little to ease my apprehension. I had joked in an earlier email that the most dangerous part of the expedition would be the helicopter flight into base camp. Little did I know how true those words would be.
Honestly about 99% of the flight was actually really enjoyable. The take off was smooth. The weather clear. I was sharing my flight was an international group of climbers. Including a basque/spanish climber called Juanito Olaizarbal (not sure about the spelling). Juanito is a living legend of high altitude mountianeering. He has 23 8000m mountain summits. Has climbed all 14 8000m mountians in the world without oxygen, including K2 ….twice. making him one of 2-3 climber sin the world to have climbed the worlds most difficult and dnagerous mountain.
Juanito had told me a story about an expedition to makalu in 2002 he had been on. They had finished the climb and took a helicopter from base cmap to Kathmandu. The climbers went on the first flight and the sherpas and cook would go on the second flight. The first flight went fine. But somwhere between Makalu base camp and Kathmandu the second flight simply disappeared without a trace. All on board were killed. The crashed helicoper was never found.
Off course this did nothing to ease my fears. These old Russian helicopters are usually piloted by Russians. They are known for there love of drinking hard liquor. Often whilst flying and often whilst they are extremely drunk.
The flight went smoothly. The pilot seemed sober….enough and even took the time to point out makalu and a few other mountains as we neared base camp. All up the flight would take arounf 20-25mins. As we neared base camp I saw some other base camps appear. I took the chanc eto do some videoing out of the window.
Now normally because landing at these altitudes is so tricky the pilots will fly once or twice around bace camp to familiarise themselves with the conditions. Then come around and land into the wind. This is pretty standard. I have seen dozens on helicopters fly into base camp and they take the same landing approach. All that is except our guy.
As I filmed out of the window I noticed that we were getting lower and lower. I stopped for a second and thought to myself, “shouldn't we be circling first?” the helicopter blades started straining under the weight of the huge metalllic beast it was trying to keep in the air. The engine which had been going along at a pretty fierce pace just seemed to stop. It was right about now that I realised, “ Oh my god, he is going to land!!”
While all this was happening I continued to film. And I must admit, not intentionally. Once I understood he was coming straight in…with a strong tailwind. Well…I kind of started to concentrate on other things…..like self preservation.
From about 20 ft above the ground we simply fell out of the sky. We were coming in at a speed of about 70-80km/hr so it was not as if it was a straight drop down. The helicopter hit the ground with a tremendous thud and we were all send flying. And I was still filming. I flew into the person next to me. Time stood still and it seemd like this was taking minutes and not the seconds. I was waiting for the rotors to hit the rocky boulder strewn landing field we had just hit. If this happened the helicopter would tear into pieces.
I hoped, I prayed we would be ok. The nose the aircraft dug in and we started to go tail over nose. Then the helicopter dug and flatted back out and moved violently to the left. Then it stopped. For those of you trying to imagine just what is was like the best way to describe it is sheer terror. You think your dying. The people you wont get to see anymore. The things you will neve rget to see or do. Then it stops. God has given you a second chance and you feel this enormous weight lifted off your shoulders. You feel so happy that you wont to laugh. Infact as I ran from wrecked helicopter I was laughing. As you watch the video I took you can hear me laughing I am running for dear life. Funny how I can find time to laugh even though I had come so close to being killed.
In a matter of seconds we were out the doors and running for dear life with our heads down to stop ourselves from getting them chopped of by the still spinning blades. I was later told that this was the wrong thing to do. We should have styed inside the helicopter until it was completelyl stationery. Oh well, I got it wrong. Next time I am in a helicopter crash I will have to make sure to get it right……not damn likely.
Anyway, we were alive. Problem was our gear was still back in lukla. I had my necessart gear with me. But other climber were not so lucky. There were memebers from other teams that had wlaked in but wer egetitng their gear helicopter in with absolutely nothing. Just a tent, sleeping bag and the clothes on their backs. Not food,gear or supplies.
Being the large group that we were and that we had had most team supplies sent in by porter we were able to help them out. Even still it was an extremely unpleasant situation for all of them to be in. I certainly did not envy any of them.
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