Sunday, May 4, 2008

all, 1st may 2008

here I am in advanced base camp. At the high old altitude of 5680m. life is actually pretty comfortable.i took my first shower for about 2 weeks today. Washed my hair, only to have it freeze in a matter of minutes afterwards. It then took about an hour to thaw my hair out and get a comb through it. My mum is always asking me to cut my hair. And times like this I can understand why.
Two days ago I took a walk up to camp 1. my sherpa tashi and 1 carried up a heap of gear and left it buried at camp 1 (6300m). the reason for this is so it does not get blown away by the fierce winds. Makalu is without a doubt the windiest mountain I have ever climbed. Much worse than everest .
I have been down for 2 days now and plan to head back up to camp 1 for 1 night. Then camp 2 (6700m) for 2 nights. Then try make it up to the makalu la where camp 3 (7400m) is located.
The makalu la is probably the windiest place on any mountain around. Because of its geographical location the wind funnels through and across the makalu-la with hurrican force speeds. Because of this it will be impossible for us to set a tent and leave it there like I have done on other mountian before. Each time we leave camp 3 we will have to pull the poles down and cover the tent with snow. Then start all over again when we come back up again.
If I can get all this done then my acclimitisation will be complete. Then its just a matter of waiting for a good weather window to make a summit bid. Sounds all too easy does`nt it? Well it¨s not. The weather is sunny everyday here in advanced base camp and on the mountain. But the strong winds are halting any serious progress further up the mountain. I guess we will just have to wait and see what mother nature has install for us.
Until then, take care everyone and see you all soon
blair

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